Ruadh Stac Mor

After my failure on An Riabhaichan in March, I was keen to re-start the Munros - I had been out runnign and cycling and my hernia repair was fully recovered. With some time off, I decided to head to the North-West and with a decent forecast, Fisherfield was front of mind. Indeed, the last success Munro-wise was A Mhaighdean, that most splendid of hills. Could this experience beat it? The plan was to walk in from Poolewe, an area I hadn't experienced before. That in itself was exciting, and although the drive was long, I was in the wee parking area for noon. That gave me a good 9 hours of light to hit the Munro and get back down to wherever I camped. 

As I set off, it was unseasonably chilly and as I moved further East it felt like some sea haar was accompanying me. Virtually no views and clag level was down to about 1000 ft. This wouldn't do but I had confidence that things would improve and so it proved. I had walked the first 10km in 2 hours and was flying along. At this point, the cliffs of Beinn Airigh Charr were coming into view, and as the day warmed up, so was the mightily impressive arena of Fisherfield - I could now begin to see across the bastion of rock that surrounded Fionn Loch and Dubh Loch. After another hour of walking, I reached the causeway. There is something about reading certain points in hill environments and seeing them. 

Just past the causeway, I set up camp and the first blue in the sky was popping through. From here, I estimated it was a good 5 mile climb up to Ruadh Stac Mor. I left camp at 1515 and enjoyed the easy climb up to the bealach - the views now were outstanding. 

Once up to the wee lochain past Carnan Ban, I wend my way up towards the bealach between RSM and A Mhaighdean. From here, the views were quite incredible - what a place!

There was still a fair bit of snow on the North facing slope/ridge of AM. The temperature had really dropped and I donned some warmer clothing for the final climb up Ruadh Stac Mor - I was surprised how exposed some of the climbing was but reached the top quite quickly and it felt great being back in Fisherfield for the final Munro summit. 

Rather than head down the same way, I headed North and negotiated the boulders on an easier slope. Although a little tricky, it wasn't long before I was down near Lochan a Braghad and I walked back round to meet up with the path near Fuar Loch Mor. The descent back to camp was beautiful and once back at camp for 1915, all that remained was to get dinner cooking, a wee dram, and to chill out in my tent listening to birdsong and the lapping of the loch waves. The following day, i would wake at 0600, have breakfast and pack up only to walk the 17km back to the car in a little under 4 hours. Fisherfield - there's nowhere like it.

A Mhaighdean

Foolishly (?), I decided to tackle this from Incheril near Kinlochewe. I had been into Fisherfield this way before and I remember the walk into Lochan Fada as being decent and bike-able. However, I did not bank on the lack of path thereafter to A Mhaighdean or the near lack of running water to top up hydration stocks. There had been several weeks of dry, warm weather so I was looking forward to a high camp near the summit. Plus, I felt confident in my fitness. Perhaps over-confidence got the better of me.

I had a nice drive up to Incheril and arrived just before 1400. Got the MTB assembled and was good to go and head into Glean na Muice. I had left a note to MrsP saying Incheril but then forgot to tell her which hills. That played on my mind right until I got reception precisely 5 hours later.

It was a joy cycling the first 5km, but then the path rises steeply and it was sweaty work to the bridge. I decided to leave the bike just past the bridge, then walk. It was very warm and I was sweating profusely. By the time I got to Lochan Fada, I realised I was 750ml down with 500ml left. A Mhaighdean looked far off and I estimated it would take me a couple of hours hard walking across lumpy ground, under Beinn Tarsuinn.

I began the traverse below Beinn Tarsuinn but it was slow progress. I did find a clear running burn and topped up another 500ml. I would boil it later. This left me with 1 litre and I was still drinking. I made it to Pollan na Muice and took in the splendour of Fisherfield. What a wondrous land it is. I slowed as I climbed up to a point at 780m, where I set up camp. A bit of food, and I began the final climb to A Mhaighdean. The summit and views are everything in the books and more. Mind-blowing. With a lovely breeze, I checked in with Mrs P and advised of plan for next morning. I would come back to Ruadh Stac Mor again from the West. I descended, rehydrated, ate and chilled. I wake at 0130 with a snipe drumming. Had no idea what it was. Actually thought it might be a UFO!

I awoke at 0415 next morning, packed up and retraced my steps to bike and then car. Back by 0800 and then a stop at the Midge Bite for a wondrous breakfast. Super experience.

Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair

I had long eyed this one from near Fain, and a MTB to break up the distance. I got to the parking area for about 1420 and got the bike set up, as well as packing as much as I could into the day-pack. The forecast was to improve as the day progressed but it was very wrong. I fair motored along the Land Rover track to Loch a Bhraoin bothy and beyond that, perhaps another kilometre. At this point, the path deteriorated so it was with much regret, that I abandoned the bike and started the walk down to Loch an Nid. The Munro soared above me but this was a point of absolute remoteness. It would be lovely to take the tent here on a warm summer's day, with a breeze to keep the midges away. I began the plod up past the massive granite cascade of rock and looked back as the rain moved in. A rainbow lit up the glen below. Beautiful.

From here, conditions worsened and the clag moved as well as some persistent snow showers. I was glad I had all the gear on and once up the steepening slopes, it was a case of careful boulder-hopping to the surprisingly small summit cairn. I didn't fancy the return the way I came so I headed South and down the ridge to the point below Meall Garbh. From here, it was a boggy return through Coire Mhic Fhearchair and then to the Bealach na Croise. From here, I headed back to the path just East of Loch an Nid, and found my bike. It was a slow bike ride back to the car and I made it just as dusk was setting in. All that remained was the long drive home but I felt energised by my 272nd Munro - 10 to go!

Bidean a Choire Sheasgaich & Lurg Mhor

 

Sgorr Ruadh

An absolutely cracking day with Ayman. His first Munro. What a tremendous day, with views out to the magnificence of Torridon. We cut short the outing as Ayman experienced some post-Covid heart palpitations.

I will return to the area for Fuar Tholl but it’s such a majestic arena. 

Maoile Lunndaidh

I was determined that this year would be the year I would compleat (sic) the Munros. 15 left, and 3 or 4 per year since 2014. Covid lockdowns had made me more determined to get out and a discussion with Graeme in November highlighted that we were both keen to do more Munro trips. I tend not to venture into the Munros over Winter, as I promised my wife years ago that I wouldn't go. However, the weather window looked good for the start of March. I decided to take the day off work, and get away nice and early. I was going to take the MTB and break the back of the route into Maoile Lunndaidh by biking up past the Pollan Buidhe. I arrived at the car park near Craig at 1100 and estimated a good 6.5 hours of daylight. I should have plenty of time. It felt great to get into the hills on the bike but I was really feeling the heart pumping as I climbed up into Glenuaig. The hills looked fabulous with a coating of snow above 700m. 

I began to wend round towards Glenuaig Lodge itself and it was an impressive place to stay - perhaps one day. I took some photos, left the bike behind the 'bothy' and started the tramp over towards the hill proper. Before setting out today, I had calculated that I would head via the broad but steep North ridge - as I was lightly equipped with trail shoes, and no crampons. This was a sound decision as it was good-going to 900m but the last 100m of ascent was on firm snow. It was bitterly cold on the summit and I could see a couple of other folks around the corrie, heading down.

I re-traced my steps as I came, and followed the path back out to 1-km east of the Lodge. I looked back up the glen out towards Strathconon direction, where there was a beautiful stillness to the view. Nothing beyond for a good few miles. Bliss. From there, it was back on the bike and a lovely ride out, eventually passing the couple and their dog. I forgot momentarily about the gate about 3km back along the track out and my brakes were tested! I got back to the car by 1530 - an absolutely cracking hill. All that remained was to get a coffee in Achnasheen and then on to my AirBnB in Drumnadrochit for the evening. 

Into Knoydart - Meall Buidhe & Luinne Bheinn

My first time into Knoydart would also coincide with my 2nd trip into the Munros for 2021. I seem to be averaging 4-5 Munros per year but this trip had been in planning since I'd been out with Graeme on Mam na Gualain in May. As usual, I didn't sleep well the night before so it was a very early start for me and I was at Mallaig for 0600. The boat wasn't until 0730. Graeme and Luna arrived just before 0700 and with heavy packs on, we boarded and enjoyed the excellent transfer over. Once we disembarked, we started the walk up into the Glen, catching up on life. We fair motored along the track up to the Mam Barrisdale, taking it all in. It felt wild here. After a couple of good hours walking, we found a wee promontory just down from Meall Buidhe and set up camp. 

After some refreshments, it was light packs on and the small matter of the two Munros for the day. It was a steep pull up on to Meall Buidhe and it took us over 2 hours to make the summit - the heat was rather stifling but the views more than made up for the pain. What a wondrous place this is.

I sent a message to Mrs P saying we were at first summit - it was the first time I'd had signal and that was refreshing enough in itself. We began the walk over to Luinne Bheinn, which didn't look that far but the descent and ascent over to it was tricky and tough, especially with Luna who was fearful of some of the climbs. The terrain between the two Munros allowed for some amazing views over to Ben Aden and beyond. Future routes were already being hatched; wee waterfalls planned for a refreshing dook. We eventually topped out on her 2nd Munro of the day, and the views were again fantastic. From here, we headed down towards the Mam Barrisdale but took a more direct route back to the tents, whereupon we downed a tin of beer in seconds. A fabulous day's walking - both tough and tremendous with the walk back out the next day to the Old Forge for lunch and a beer, a real treat. Cannot wait to come back.